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Personal Statement
Quitting is for quitters!
Personal Info
Sensible Jones
48 years old
London-ish. UK.
Born Mar-15-1967
Gear List:-
Ibanez RG 350 DX (with Seymour Duncan HB and Jazz Pickups),
Yamaha RGX 211,
'67 Framus Jaguar finished in Burr Walnut,
G&L Asat Classic,
Warmoth Strat with Fender custom Shop Neck,
'73 Strat (Less paint than Rory Gallaghers!!)
2 Hand built Strats by me,
'72 Thinline Tele,
TC90 Tele,

Acoustic/Electro Acoustic:-
Hand Built Suzuki Nagoya.
'86 Ovation Balladeer.
Flametop Marlin.
'67 Eko 12 string.
Artisania 'Admira' Nylon string.

Various Other Acoustic Instruments:-
Mandolins, Banjo's, Autoharps.

FX and Amps:-
Zoom 9000's, 9030 DSP, 9150 Valve Preamp, 8050 Floor Controller, Marshall 8008 Poweramp, Laney 2x12 Cabs, Peavey Renown, Peavey Solo, '67 Selmer 50 MkIII Treble 'n' Bass Head with original 2x12 Cab.

Bass Gear:-
Yamaha BB330 Bass, Trace Elliot GPX7 Combo.
Joined: 2-January 09
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Local Time: Jul 5 2015, 01:13 AM
5.765 posts (2 per day)
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Sensible Jones

GMC Senior

Practice Agenda
My Content
29 Jun 2015

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23 Apr 2015
Part 2!!!
Use exactly the same method for the Jack Plate:-

For the installation of all the new parts:-
First, we'll install the Piezo Under Saddle/Bridge. The Piezo strip lays in the bottom of the Bridge in the Saddle Slot, the connecting wire feeds through that hole on the right into the Body Cavity.

The Saddle is then replaced.

On the end of the Piezo is a small Jack Plug:-

This plugs into the underside of the Pre-amp unit:-

Next we fit the Magnetic Pickup in the soundhole. This is optional and doesn't HAVE to be installed, but I thought I'd install everything that was supplied!

This is held in place by two clamps, one on either side that tighten up using the two Phillips screws.

Once in place, feed it's wire out of the Pre-amp hole and connect to the underside of the Unit. You can't get these two plugs mixed up as they are different sizes!!

Now, there's a long wire with a White plug on it that we need to feed from the the Pre-amp, through the Body and out of the Jack Plate aperture!

This plug fixes onto the Jack Plate. Again, it can only fix one way round so you can't go wrong!!

Push the Jake Plate into it's new home and we're almost there!!!

The next, and almost last, thing to do is to use your Rotary Multi-tool again. Use a 0.3mm drill bit and pre-drill all the Mounting Screw holes on the Jack Plate and the Pre-amp Unit:-

Install the supplied screws, there's two sizes here, small ones for the Jack Plate and slightly larger ones for the Pre-amp. Once they're installed, re-string your guitar, install a Battery in the Pre-amp Unit (easily done from the top) and that's it, you're good to go!!!!
I hope this walkthrough was of interest to those that wanted it!!
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Part 1 is HERE!!
23 Apr 2015
OK, so what do you get in this 'Blender' Pre-amp kit?

L to R:- The Pre-Amp with attached Microphone, Magnetic Pickup (same as in your electric guitar), Jack Plate with a Direct Level Out XLR and an Under Saddle Piezo Pickup.
Here's a closer shot of the Pre-Amp:-

You can see what each of the sliders control. The main Rotary Pot to the right is a Master Volume and just above it is a Phase On/Off button.
So what am I cutting holes in to fit it? This:-

My late 80's USA Ovation. This guitar has had some serious abuse over the years and been around the World more than once. The first time it came across the Atlantic it had a chunk knocked off the Headstock!!

Just recently I swapped out the original tuners for those chrome Locking ones.

OK, first job, remove the strings so that we can remove the old Pre-Amp unit. Once the strings are unattached we need to remove this Volume Knob:-

It's held in place by a small Allen Screw. Once the screw is slackened the Knob will just lift off:-

By undoing that Lock Nut on the spindle of the Volume Pot the whole unit will be released, undo the similar Lock Nut on the Output Jack and you can now remove everything through the Soundhole. (With these Ovatons there is also a separate Battery Carrier to remove.)

Now we start with the new installation!!!

Firstly, get your new Pre-amp and hold against the front of your guitar body to find where it best suits the contours. This is the best I could get with this unit:-

Unfortunately they don't manufacture these units for Bowl-back acoustics which have a very slightly different silhouette to most 'Concert' sized acoustics.
Next we need to mark out where we are going to cut the hole for the new unit. We can do this by sticking some Masking Tape on the body, then realign where the Pre-amp is to fit the Body and mark the front and back across the Tape:-

Remember that those lines are the external measurement of your Pre-amp!! Next, we measure the depth of the overhang on the Pre-amp and mark INSIDE our original lines, then mark out the two lines parallel to the front of the guitar:-

Now it's time to get cutting!!!
Using a Rotary Multi-tool with an all purpose cutting disc, like this:-

Carefully cut just inside your markings. We can always cut more out if necessary but you can't put it back!!!

Try fitting the Pre-amp unit in the hole, If it fits first time WELL DONE!!! If it's tight, mark where it's rubbing on your tape with a pencil, remove the Pre-amp and trim to suit. Don't worry if this takes 3 or 4 attempts, we'd rather have it fitting snug than loose!

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3 Jan 2015 - 14:47

Thank you so much. :)
2 Apr 2011 - 3:50
Thx buddy for wishing me a happy birthday
23 Mar 2010 - 13:54
Happy Birthday my friend :) I hope you have a wonderful day!!
15 Mar 2010 - 15:52
thankyou very much for the birthday wishes! :)
28 Feb 2010 - 22:48
Thank you very much man. I appreciate that :)
22 Jan 2010 - 22:10


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