Weird Problem With My Tube Amp ..., concerning tubes |
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Apr 4 2010, 11:03 PM
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In general a too bright glowing tube is a sign it's bad.
That it went back to normal in standby mode could very well be. My bet is that you'll experience it again, with the same tube. Keep your ears open for crackle and pops. -------------------- My bands homepage
All time favourites: B. Streisand - Woman in Love, M. Hopkin - Those were the days, L. Richie - Hello |
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Apr 5 2010, 12:00 PM
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QUOTE (Mister_Riff @ Apr 5 2010, 09:22 AM)  So if I replace the tube ... is it possible to just replace the bad one, or do I have to replace all 4? (I've heard power amp tubes aren't exactly cheap  )Replace all of them for a matched quad. If you're lucky your poweramp tubes are marked with a number, if you can (from ENGL) get the same kind with the same marking you will have a set that will fit right in without you biasing the amp. Being a german amp, and my H&K has a sticker on the tubes for this purpose, but I'm not sure others does this. My H&K was the first amp with this system. I'd wait for the crackle and pop or a fuse going before exchanging any tubes. QUOTE And If I play the amp, with the bad tube in it ... is it possible that I'm damaging the amp or will I just have reduced volume? (because it's a poweramp-tube) It will sound baaaaaaaaad and if it dies completely you'll blow a fuse. -------------------- My bands homepage
All time favourites: B. Streisand - Woman in Love, M. Hopkin - Those were the days, L. Richie - Hello |
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Apr 5 2010, 03:37 PM
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Tubes that come from factory are usually one of the worst quality tubes, because they are expendable and not cheap, so whatever companies can do to make their amps cheaper, they do it. Cutting corners on tubes is one of them. So, your tubes don't need to be "from the factory" to work properly. Usually when you buy a new tube amp, re-tubing with some good quality tubes is the first thing you will do (depending on the amp and the tubes installed).
It seems to me that your tube will burn out soon. When you decide to get them new, get them as a matched 4 x 5881 set. Sovtek and Tung-Sol are great choices. -------------------- - Ivan's Video Chat Lesson Notes HERE
- Check out my GMC Profile and Lessons - (Please subscribe to my) YouTube Official Channel - Let's be connected through ! Facebook! :) |
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Apr 5 2010, 03:50 PM
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Looks like it is red plating. Don't play the amp, replace power tubes with a new matched set. You can destroy major components on your amp playing with tube that is red plating.
In the US, Eurotubes is the place to go for a good set at a good price. I don't know about where you are. edit: here is their site, they have a lot of great information about amps and amp problems. I have bought from them and find them to have great service. As I said, probably not in Belgium, but the forum is read by others who might find this useful. Although Yngwie endorses them, so maybe they sell where you are. http://eurotubes.com/ When you get your new tubes, learn how to set the bias. They also explain that on this site. You have to set the bias on most amps when you change power tubes, there are a few that do this automatically. QUOTE (Mister_Riff @ Apr 4 2010, 11:54 AM) Hello GMC
Yesterday I had a strange problem with my ENGL Ritchie Blackmore: One of my tubes (the big ones powering the poweramp) lit up way brighter than it usually does. Also strange was that I could smell nothing wrong (no burning smell, it just smells hot but that must be the tubes) and there also wasn't a drop in volume or anything like that. And even stranger was when I put the amp in standby the tube went back to normal and when I turned standby off, it didn't return. I'm completely puzzled by this ...  Also the amp is brand new, hasn't been moved around (only the transport by UPS) and hasn't been subjected to extreme volume or anything like that. The only recent thing is that I have bought a TC G major 2 and that that has been inserted into the Effects loop (input and output is completely normal) Any ideas what this might be or what I have to do now? Here is a picture showing the bright tube (just happened to have my camera nearby  ): This post has been edited by fkalich: Apr 5 2010, 04:00 PM |
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Apr 5 2010, 04:26 PM
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QUOTE (fkalich @ Apr 5 2010, 04:50 PM) Looks like it is red plating. Don't play the amp, replace power tubes with a new matched set. You can destroy major components on your amp playing with tube that is red plating. That would be a pair of tubes red plating as far as I see it. To rule that out you can - start the amp - play for a couple of minutes (i.e not in standby) - pull the plug from the wall socket (in order to drain the amp of current) - wait for the tubes to cool remove the tube that was glowing and exchange it with one from the other pair. They sit in one pair of outer tubes, and one pair of middle tubes. So if this is one of the middle tubes glowing you sould sit it in an outer position. If the tube in the glowing tubes old spot starts glowing there's a problem with your amps power. If the tube that used to glow now glows again it's a tube problem. QUOTE (fkalich @ Apr 5 2010, 04:50 PM) When you get your new tubes, learn how to set the bias. Yes, it's a good idea to know how to service your tube amp yourself. At least for these reoccuring mainenance matters. -------------------- My bands homepage
All time favourites: B. Streisand - Woman in Love, M. Hopkin - Those were the days, L. Richie - Hello |
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Apr 6 2010, 05:04 PM
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QUOTE (fkalich @ Apr 5 2010, 04:50 PM) Looks like it is red plating. Don't play the amp, replace power tubes with a new matched set. You can destroy major components on your amp playing with tube that is red plating. In the US, Eurotubes is the place to go for a good set at a good price. I don't know about where you are. http://eurotubes.com/ When you get your new tubes, learn how to set the bias. They also explain that on this site. You have to set the bias on most amps when you change power tubes, there are a few that do this automatically. If you think the amp is red plating I do have to say that the red glow is from LED's that are placed behind the tubes (to make it look more evil  ). Its only the one that is shining bright yellow ....And about the site: checked that already but I'm probably the most clumsy person alive so I'm gonna leave it to the pro'sIvan probably is right ... I still cant believe the sound quality I got from a head that's 1200€  cant wait to hear it with more expensive power tubes, I already got my dream tone (al be it with cheap tubes  )-------------------- Guitars:
Ibanez RG 1570 Ibanez RGA 121 CDO Amps: ENGL Ritchie Blackmore/Framus Cabinet (V30's) simple practise amp epiphone valve junior Effects: Line 6 POD 2.0 lot's of pedals TC Electronics G Major 2 Recording and such: BOSS BR-600 BOSS DR-880 Digitech JamMan |
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Apr 12 2010, 12:11 AM
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Good thing to do is to carry the amp once for a pro job, and watch while he works. Then you will see that it is not big deal, and you can do it yourself
-------------------- - Ivan's Video Chat Lesson Notes HERE
- Check out my GMC Profile and Lessons - (Please subscribe to my) YouTube Official Channel - Let's be connected through ! Facebook! :) |
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Apr 12 2010, 11:48 AM
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QUOTE (Ivan Milenkovic @ Apr 5 2010, 04:37 PM) Tubes that come from factory are usually one of the worst quality tubes, because they are expendable and not cheap, so whatever companies can do to make their amps cheaper, they do it. Cutting corners on tubes is one of them. So, your tubes don't need to be "from the factory" to work properly. Usually when you buy a new tube amp, re-tubing with some good quality tubes is the first thing you will do (depending on the amp and the tubes installed). It seems to me that your tube will burn out soon. When you decide to get them new, get them as a matched 4 x 5881 set. Sovtek and Tung-Sol are great choices. +1 The amp will sound even better with NOS tubes and the BIAS adjusted. I will also add Philips & Tungsram & RCA old tubes as possible choices. //Staffay --------------------  Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60 Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2 Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace |
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Apr 12 2010, 04:13 PM
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You should replace them all, because as the guys said, you can break some other componnnents of the amp. Check the fuse also, so you're sure it's not becacuse of the electrical feeding.
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Apr 13 2010, 11:57 PM
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If its your first time doing this kind of setup, I recommend taking the amp to the tech and asking to stick around to see how its done. Later on you can tackle the job with more confidence
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