A Soldering Iron |
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Nov 6 2009, 08:56 AM
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The best one's is actually those with adjustable temperature, but they are quite expensive... I would say that an alternative will be to buy two - one very thin for precision work, and one with high effect to solder pots and things like that. I guess You can find some cheap one's at some outlet that will work excellent, since You're not gonna use them every day.
//Staffay EDIT: What differs them is really the effect and the quality of the tip's. In order to solder pots and such, you need high effect when soldering on the covers for instance. The tip quality is not of any greater importance here, since it always can be fixed with a file when getting bad. (even that people say that it should'nt be done) This post has been edited by Staffy: Nov 6 2009, 09:00 AM --------------------  Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60 Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2 Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace |
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Nov 6 2009, 09:16 AM
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QUOTE (Neurologi @ Nov 6 2009, 09:08 AM)  Great! Thanks Staffy. Gives me an idea what to look out for ... No probs! 
-------------------- Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60 Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2 Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace |
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Nov 6 2009, 11:06 AM
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QUOTE (Sensible Jones @ Nov 6 2009, 11:04 AM) (Or a fine tipped adjustable temp one, these are called 'Soldering Stations'.)  These were the expensive one's I meant... :-) -------------------- Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60 Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2 Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace |
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Nov 6 2009, 02:44 PM
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QUOTE (Neurologi @ Nov 6 2009, 12:03 PM) How about something like this? Neat and tidy. I can get it fairly cheap via mail order.  VELLEMAN VTSS4 Soldering Station On/Off Switch with LED Light Soldering Iron Tip: Ø 1.2mm Power Consumption: 48W Temperature Control Range: 100 ° C - 450 ° C ------------------------------------------------------------ [EDIT] >> What kind of temp would one need to replace a capacitor or two, for instance, as that would be the first job I would have? This is more than enough to do the job. -------------------- - Ivan's Video Chat Lesson Notes HERE
- Check out my GMC Profile and Lessons - (Please subscribe to my) YouTube Official Channel - Let's be connected through ! Facebook! :) |
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Nov 6 2009, 05:40 PM
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Thank you all for your help.
QUOTE (enforcer @ Nov 6 2009, 02:17 PM) if its cheap you get this. But remember, you can't just fit this in your everyday toolbox can you? I believe 20W range soldiering irons are quite cheap, at least they are cheap here in Turkey(about $6-10 max) so, you may buy this one, and buy a 20W without temp control to carry with you wherever you go. Edit - Reply to your Edit - Generally it depends on your circuitry wattage, but I assume you want to change the capacitor on your guitar I guess, so 20W would be fine... Btw, for those kind of works, just remember to have some Soldiering Paste too, it makes really easy the cable work...When I said toolbox, I meant the "proverbial" one!  It will likely only be used at home, so size is not so much an issue. Having another look, I see my local hardware store has two power ratings available for a simple soldering iron - 15W & 30W. Even these I wouldn't consider cheap. Everything in Finland is overpriced!Sorry I am a noob. I don't see what difference there is as far as a particular job is concerned? The job I have in mind is replacing a couple of capacitors on the PCB in my G-Major (Yes. It is well out of warranty!) as suggested by some users on the TC Electronic Support Portal Forum in this post here as a solution to some of the problems I have been having with this unit as of late. -------------------- My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
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Nov 6 2009, 07:04 PM
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That one will be plenty powerful enough to do PCB work!!!
-------------------- I'd rather have a full Bottle in front of me than a full Frontal Lobotomy!!
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Nov 6 2009, 07:20 PM
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As an alternative - maybe just leave the GMajor powered on? A lot of pro gear works well if left on.
-------------------- Get your music professionally mastered by anl AES registered Mastering Engineer. Contact me for Audio Mastering Services and Advice and visit our website www.miromastering.com
Be friends on facebook with us here. We use professional, mastering grade hardware in our mastering studo. Our hardware includes: Cranesong Avocet II Monitor Controller, Dangerous Music Liasion Insert Hardware Router, ATC SCM Pro Monitors, Lavry Black DA11, Prism Orpheus ADC/DAC, Gyratec Gyraf XIV Parallel Passive Mastering EQ, Great River MAQ 2NV Mastering EQ, Kush Clariphonic Parallel EQ Shelf, Maselec MLA-2 Mastering Compressor, API 2500 Mastering Compressor, Eventide Eclipse Reverb/Echo. |
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