Guitars Seem The Same But Feel Different? |
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Aug 2 2017, 07:16 PM
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QUOTE (yoncopin @ Aug 2 2017, 05:28 PM)  Ok, I'm looking at it now. It would make some sense on the Strat that it needs to be adjusted because the neck is a replacement. I lowered the saddles all the way down and the strings are resting on the last fret, no gap. So when I make my shim, do I want to raise the body side of the neck pocket or the headstock side? Its probably a sign that the neck angle is not far off, which is good. Now raise the saddles till the tiny screws won't bother when you rest your hand on the trem. , basically the bridge screws shouldn't be like this; http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/122493745572-0-1/s-l1000.jpg but goal is still trying keep the saddles as low as possible. After that if the strings are buzzing, instead of further raising the saddles try a thinner shim on the neck pocket. Its normal to make 2-3 tries to get it as perfect as possible but don't be a perfectionist (also don't over squeeze the bolt too hard). In the end if an ever slight raise of saddles are needed so be it cause remove+screwing the neck can be very exausting. |
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Aug 2 2017, 07:36 PM
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So the goal is to get lower saddles which have a looser feel? Because my strings are slightly touching the last fret I'm guessing it means i need to raise the headstock side of the neck pocket just a hair right? I'm at the hardware store now getting some thin wood, thanks for your help Mertay I'm excited about this working.
QUOTE (Mertay @ Aug 2 2017, 02:16 PM) Its probably a sign that the neck angle is not far off, which is good. Now raise the saddles till the tiny screws won't bother when you rest your hand on the trem. , basically the bridge screws shouldn't be like this; http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/122493745572-0-1/s-l1000.jpg but goal is still trying keep the saddles as low as possible. After that if the strings are buzzing, instead of further raising the saddles try a thinner shim on the neck pocket. Its normal to make 2-3 tries to get it as perfect as possible but don't be a perfectionist (also don't over squeeze the bolt too hard). In the end if an ever slight raise of saddles are needed so be it cause remove+screwing the neck can be very exausting. --------------------  |
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Aug 3 2017, 03:35 AM
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Some very Spiff Ibbys there!!! The 570 is a classic! But if that slim profile is not your thing, then the S series profile may be more the way to go. I would suggest the used RGT line of Ibanez guitars since they are neck through body (Great sustain and typically only done on high end ibby's these days) and they use good woods and have a neck profile closer to the III which is really just a renamed II for the most part http://ibanez.wikia.com/wiki/Wizard_III#Wizard_III. I have another RGT42FM *(my third one, all have had great fret work, no jaggies, keep getting good offers on them)for example that has a neck profile more similar to the PGM neck than the 570 neck. Bit rounder, less flat and wide. They have not made these guitars for years of course, but you can find them on ebay and reverb. Try to look at the korean RGT line if possible as they are IMHO a pinch better in build than the Indo RGTs.
You may be able to find some RGT models in your local music store or pawn shop  If not, you can always go online to ebay/reverb.com etc. Have you played one of these btw? P.S. The make a version of your current fave with a locking trem if you want one http://ibanez.wikia.com/wiki/S670QM  My current guitars are: 1995 Gibson SG Special - This is a never sell, it's not my first guitar, but is close. I don't play it much anymore though. 2001 Ibanez RG570 - Very nice, Wizard profile w/Edge bridge isn't exactly my thing, but if it was this is it. A keeper 2003 Ibanez SA160 - HSS fixer upper for $180, clued me into the Saber body, enjoy it but probably won't own it forever. 2005 Schecter C-1+ - This is my Les Paul-killer, sounds great, plays great. Worth almost nothing to sell and it's just to good to let go for what it'd get 2006 Fender American Strat - I've replaced pickups, wiring configuration, Warmoth compound radius neck, replaced defective tuners.... so yeah 2016 Ibanez S671QM - My current favorite This post has been edited by Todd Simpson: Aug 3 2017, 03:46 AM |
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Aug 3 2017, 02:56 PM
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QUOTE You may be able to find some RGT models in your local music store or pawn shop smile.gif If not, you can always go online to ebay/reverb.com etc. Have you played one of these btw? No I haven't, I actually hadn't even considered looking at Ibanez for a set neck model. They do make this RGA62T which is reasonably priced. Maybe next time my GAS syndrome kicks in I'll do some eBay hunting. To be honest, I've almost pulled the trigger on this RG421, with the intention to sell the SA160. I think I just want it because it's white though I like pretty basic guitars, but I know it will need a bunch of upgrades and finishing work to get it where I want it to be. I don't need another project right now, maybe when I can get one used for <$200. This one seems much nicer, but I can't spend that much just because I like the white when I already have the RG570. I've also had my eye on the trem S model you mentioned. I always have this idea that a trem would be cool, but I actually don't really know how to use one and my double stops go out of tune, so all my trems have all ended up blocked.QUOTE It usually takes few wasted pieces of veneer but it's possible. I was doing some test myself because I barely trust in myths from the internet...but in this case for my guitars it has been proven that a wooden neck shim makes a lot of difference for some prets susian. Using a piece of sanding paper took some sustain away on particular frets....some were even fluttering! About the starts...start radius standrd (american standard a t least) is 9,5" where Ibanez usually goes for 12" or even more so Generally there can be a visible difference on how strings behave while bending on higher frets After an evening of playing, I think the aluminum will work long term. It's metal so it doesn't compress and should have excellent transfer of vibrations. There is a very small gap you can see in the pic, but I don't ?think? it's an issue. All the notes sustain better now and the whole thing is more comfortable to play with the lower tension. I re-measured the thickness of the shim, it's almost exactly the thickness of a paper index card. This is why I got the new neck in the first place, it's 10-16" compound radius. I think I previously ranted about Fender's 9.5". I'll never buy another one for that reason alone. To me, 12" is the minimum. This post has been edited by yoncopin: Aug 3 2017, 02:57 PM -------------------- |
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Aug 3 2017, 04:44 PM
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Ebay or Reverb are a good way to save some cash on guitars, and even if it says "no returns" if you want to return it you can under ebay buyer protection and ebay will give you your money back. I've been on the other side of such transactions and they always go with the buyer in my experience no matter what. I'm sure someone has story saying the exact opposite of course
Being a seller on ebay for over 10 years, I've had plenty of experience with this sort of thing.If you have a local guitar shop where you can buy used, you are in great shape. If not, then ebay/reverb make a great option. I got my 3570z off ebay as I've never seen one in a local shop EVER. All the guitars you mentioned are spiff Once you get ready, I'm sure you can find one used that suits you and not go broke doing it Todd QUOTE (yoncopin @ Aug 3 2017, 09:56 AM) No I haven't, I actually hadn't even considered looking at Ibanez for a set neck model. They do make this RGA62T which is reasonably priced. Maybe next time my GAS syndrome kicks in I'll do some eBay hunting. To be honest, I've almost pulled the trigger on this RG421, with the intention to sell the SA160. I think I just want it because it's white though I like pretty basic guitars, but I know it will need a bunch of upgrades and finishing work to get it where I want it to be. I don't need another project right now, maybe when I can get one used for <$200. This one seems much nicer, but I can't spend that much just because I like the white when I already have the RG570. I've also had my eye on the trem S model you mentioned. I always have this idea that a trem would be cool, but I actually don't really know how to use one and my double stops go out of tune, so all my trems have all ended up blocked.After an evening of playing, I think the aluminum will work long term. It's metal so it doesn't compress and should have excellent transfer of vibrations. There is a very small gap you can see in the pic, but I don't ?think? it's an issue. All the notes sustain better now and the whole thing is more comfortable to play with the lower tension. I re-measured the thickness of the shim, it's almost exactly the thickness of a paper index card. This is why I got the new neck in the first place, it's 10-16" compound radius. I think I previously ranted about Fender's 9.5". I'll never buy another one for that reason alone. To me, 12" is the minimum. |
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Aug 4 2017, 03:58 PM
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Even if scale length, nut height, neck pocket depth, fret size and material, neck and fngrbrd material, action and string gauge are exactly the same - the main reason a Fender and an Ibby will feel different is that the string length and break angle behind the nut and bridge are different. Same for the width of the nut and bridge saddles. This has a big affect on the playing feel.
These elements seem small but they are not. The easiest way to illustrate this is to play a "Jimi Hendrix" model (reversed headstock) Strat and compare it with a standard (vintage type) model. *The main element that makes Jazzmasters and Jaguars so unique (the necks are Strat necks) is the amount of string between the bridge and the tailpiece. This post has been edited by klasaine: Aug 4 2017, 04:03 PM -------------------- - Ken Lasaine
https://soundcloud.com/klasaine2/foolin-the-clouds https://soundcloud.com/klasaine2/surfin-at-the-country-hop Soundcloud assorted ... https://soundcloud.com/klasaine3 New record ... http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/kenlasaine Solo Guitar ... https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXZh...5iIdO2tpgtj25Ke Stuff I'm on ... https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXZh...b-dhb-4B0KgRY-d |
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Aug 4 2017, 04:21 PM
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QUOTE (klasaine @ Aug 4 2017, 10:58 AM) Even if scale length, nut height, neck pocket depth, fret size and material, neck and fngrbrd material, action and string gauge are exactly the same - the main reason a Fender and an Ibby will feel different is that the string length and break angle behind the nut and bridge are different. Same for the width of the nut and bridge saddles. This has a big affect on the playing feel. These elements seem small but they are not. The easiest way to illustrate this is to play a "Jimi Hendrix" model (reversed headstock) Strat and compare it with a standard (vintage type) model. *The main element that makes Jazzmasters and Jaguars so unique (the necks are Strat necks) is the amount of string between the bridge and the tailpiece. I'm glad you mentioned this, because I had kind of closed the book on the topic. My understanding was incomplete, but your post prompted me to do a bit more research. I found this article which explains a lot of the why of string tension and takes into account all of the points you made too. I now understand this a lot better. This post has been edited by yoncopin: Aug 4 2017, 04:21 PM -------------------- |
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