Emg 81/85, Adding another battery |
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Dec 6 2008, 04:55 AM
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I've never heard of this before.. But there's quite alot about it on the web it seems, looks really tempting to try!
I'm reading through this: http://home.comcast.net/~mgollihur/emgmod.html -------------------- Guitars: Schecter Stiletto Classic, Jackson SLSMG, Ibanez RG-380 Japan, Gibson Les Paul Studio
Amp: Marshall JMP-1 -> Rocktron Velocity 100 -> Marshall JCM-900 Lead 4x12 FX and stomps: T.C Electronics G-Sharp, Korg SDD-1200, Emma Transmorgrifier, BYOC Tribooster, GGG Green Ringer, Dinosaur Overdrive, Voodoo Lab SuperFuzz, Sovtek Bassballs, Line6 Tap Tremolo, EHX Screaming Bird. ___________________________________________________ My Lessons! My Instructor Board! My Myspace! |
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Dec 6 2008, 10:43 PM
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Hm, I might try that in my hellraiser...
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Dec 6 2008, 10:45 PM
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looks like an interesting idea .. I might try it too .. I think that it depends on what sound you're looking after
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Dec 6 2008, 10:48 PM
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QUOTE (Outlaw2112 @ Dec 6 2008, 03:32 AM)  Has anyone added another battery to their EMG's? Ive heard that 18 volts sounds alot better than 9 out of the EMGs Im considering doing this and wanted to research it more I remember there was a thread about it at GMC quite some time ago, I think there was a description on "how to" aswell. Should be easy thoug, biggest problem would be to fit the second battery  Yeah, they claim the sound's better on on fronts. I belive those EMG's can run on 27 Volts but best result is from 18V This post has been edited by MickeM: Dec 6 2008, 10:49 PM -------------------- My bands homepage
All time favourites: B. Streisand - Woman in Love, M. Hopkin - Those were the days, L. Richie - Hello |
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Dec 7 2008, 12:10 AM
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This guy did a sound test on his guitar with a 9 volt and with a 18 volt..
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Dec 12 2008, 05:17 AM
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I just ordered one from ebay...
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Dec 12 2008, 01:13 PM
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QUOTE (Praetorian @ Dec 12 2008, 12:43 PM) Do you have a link to the auction? I just ordered one as well. Looks pretty cool. I wonder if you could use it with the seymour duncan blackouts? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=300279595902 |
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Dec 12 2008, 02:37 PM
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Thanks for the heads up Outlaw. Just bought one myself. I'm interested to hear the difference.
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Dec 12 2008, 05:52 PM
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I'll try to help if I may. Actually building one for yourself is relatively easy. And I believe I can also help you building a 9v-18v switch too.
You need only 3 things. -A DPDT center off switch -Some cables, soldering iron etc. Switch -a 9v snap connector Like the one here you can all find these from your local radioshack or equivalent. Remove the back plate and 9v battery. There should be two cables going to battery snap. One red and one black. Like as follows: CODE Pickup System I____________red________(+) Battery I____________black______(-) Side Cut the red wire and remove the insulation at the the both endings. Prepare both endings to soldier. (apply soldier to both cables but dont soldier them!) now we have something as follows: CODE Pickup System I___________red(1) /you performed cut here/ red(2)__________(+) battery I____________________black_____________________________________________(-) An Dpdt way switch is something like this Switch CODE / -----(A)-o (B )o o(C )---- -----(D)-o (E)o o(F)---- When switched to the right side it connects B to C and E to F and otherwise A to B and D to E. firstly, you need to soldier (2) (the red cable coming from the old 9v snap) to (C ) one of the edge pins it's not important now but at the new step it becomes important. now we have to soldier (1) (pickup side of the red wire you just cut) to (B ) pin of the switch. (to the middle one next to one you just soldiered) There you go. Now take your new 9v snap connector (that you bought form radioshack) and remove the insulation at the endings of both cables. Prepare them for soldering. its something like that: 9v cable CODE o(3)--------------------------red------(+) o(4)-------------------------black-----(-) now it is some soldering work from here.... solder 3 to a and 4 to d. It means red cable from 9v cable snap to the pin next to the middle one you just soldiered. and 4 is the black cable from the new 9v snap to the pin on the switch that is bellow a. Now you soldier a new cable to the middle pin that is unconnected ( (E) at this point), to © (the pin that you soldiered red cable from the old 9v snap-the very first soldiering work you did in this tutorial) And you are good to go. Preferably you might drill a hole on the back plate to connect the switch out to make it switchable even between songs. Not this has to look like this: CODE Pickup system I hope this wasnt so complicated. I had to show this here to give you ability to switch between 9v and 18v modes.I_________________________black_____________________________(-) I___________red wire____________ Old 9v snap I ___red wire_(+) _______(A) (B ) (C )_____I I SWITCH____/ I / I (D) (E) (F) (unconnected) I I I I I I_______________black_________________(-) red New 9v snap I____________________________________________(+) Good luck and feel free to ask... edit: typo This post has been edited by enforcer: Dec 13 2008, 03:42 AM --------------------  incoming spoiler read it at your own risk! Spoiler: it, surely, spoiled me!!! and may the force be with you :) |
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Dec 12 2008, 11:07 PM
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That was a mighty fine guide enforcer
.. I'm tempted to give it a go
This post has been edited by Trond Vold: Dec 12 2008, 11:07 PM -------------------- Guitars: Schecter Stiletto Classic, Jackson SLSMG, Ibanez RG-380 Japan, Gibson Les Paul Studio
Amp: Marshall JMP-1 -> Rocktron Velocity 100 -> Marshall JCM-900 Lead 4x12 FX and stomps: T.C Electronics G-Sharp, Korg SDD-1200, Emma Transmorgrifier, BYOC Tribooster, GGG Green Ringer, Dinosaur Overdrive, Voodoo Lab SuperFuzz, Sovtek Bassballs, Line6 Tap Tremolo, EHX Screaming Bird. ___________________________________________________ My Lessons! My Instructor Board! My Myspace! |
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Dec 13 2008, 04:08 AM
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If EMG thought it was best with 18 volt, they'd have 18 volt. I'd say lay off this idea.
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