Floating Bridge - Tuning. |
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Floating Bridge - Tuning. |
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Dec 25 2018, 10:22 PM |
I find getting them roughly in tune with the headstock tuners first and the fine tuners on the trem set to the middle, then I tune, where 1 is the high E, 1,2,1,2,3,1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4,5,1,2,3,4,5,6
This works best for me, you'll find a way if you keep going. The first time I tuned a Floyd the bridge was up at about 45 degrees when I looked at it then the high E snapped. It's a learning curve for sure. This post has been edited by Phil66: Jan 20 2019, 11:23 AM -------------------- SEE MY GMC CERTIFICATE “Success is not obtained overnight. It comes in instalments; you get a little bit today, a little bit tomorrow until the whole package is given out. The day you procrastinate, you lose that day's success.” Israelmore Ayivor |
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Dec 26 2018, 09:05 PM |
If the bridge was setup correctly to begin with where it is flat and parallel to the body and you are changing to strings that are of the same gauge as the ones you are replacing. Blocking the bridge with a shim on the inside of the trem cavity between the trem block and the body, or on top of the guitar between the back of the trem and the body so that it stays in place while you change the strings is what I like to do.
That way I can take all the strings off at once and clean and oil the fretboard before putting on new strings. It will also save you a lot of time tuning and re tuning. Set your fine tuners about halfway or less so you have plenty of room to tune up after you lock the nut. Also, stretch the hell out of every string as you put it on and tune it with the tuning keys before you lock the nut. I usually like to shim on the inside of the trem cavity with a shim that I make out of cedar shim stock so that the trem is locked in just about the exact position it is going to be in once the new strings are installed and the guitar is in tune. You can also buy a trem block that mounts on the inside of the trem cavity which allows you to lock the trem in place. If you are changing string gauge or the trem is not set up flat with the body to begin with, you will need to adjust the spring tension of the trem by adjusting the screws of the anchor claw on the inside of the trem cavity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsOTfUvRY3o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEyg_sEACdE This post has been edited by AK Rich: Dec 27 2018, 08:10 PM |
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Jan 19 2019, 11:26 PM
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If the bridge was setup correctly to begin with where it is flat and parallel to the body and you are changing to strings that are of the same gauge as the ones you are replacing. Blocking the bridge with a shim on the inside of the trem cavity between the trem block and the body, or on top of the guitar between the back of the trem and the body so that it stays in place while you change the strings is what I like to do. That way I can take all the strings off at once and clean and oil the fretboard before putting on new strings. It will also save you a lot of time tuning and re tuning. Set your fine tuners about halfway or less so you have plenty of room to tune up after you lock the nut. Also, stretch the hell out of every string as you put it on and tune it with the tuning keys before you lock the nut. I usually like to shim on the inside of the trem cavity with a shim that I make out of cedar shim stock so that the trem is locked in just about the exact position it is going to be in once the new strings are installed and the guitar is in tune. You can also buy a trem block that mounts on the inside of the trem cavity which allows you to lock the trem in place. If you are changing string gauge or the trem is not set up flat with the body to begin with, you will need to adjust the spring tension of the trem by adjusting the screws of the anchor claw on the inside of the trem cavity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsOTfUvRY3o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEyg_sEACdE Sorry for the late post, I never look into forums but saw this and thought id post up. When you buy an ibanez with a floating bridge it normally (or in my case anyway) says "use only D'dario XL strings") Thinking this was probably just nonsense I tried to fit my usual Ernike ball Strings. I was faced with the same problem of the strings constantly dropping out of tune and the bridge raising in the air. Took them off and tried D'dario xl's and no such problem afterwards. Concluded that some strings have too much elasticity maybe. No such problems since and that was years ago. Ibanez floaters (edge pro as I re,ember) are second to none in my opinion. |
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Jan 21 2019, 10:02 PM |
Through most of the 80s I worked in a music store. I installed strings on probably 500 Ibanez guitars with floating bridges, not to mention Kramers, Jacksons, ESPs, Arias, etc. None of them ever 'specified' a particular brand. Some did say "this guitar is strung with such and such brand of strings". Anytime there was a 'recommendation' it came from the string company. For example, "D'Addario XLs unique tapered ends hold tuning on your floating bridge longer" or some such bullshit. Or, Fender 'bullets' work better for trad Strat trem bridges (also complete BS). All these suggestions were via the string manufacturers and sometimes included in the guitar case candy. Many times it also came with a discount card for buying more of said strings.
In my experience all the name brand electric strings work perfectly well on all type of trem bridges. Occasionally there will be a bad batch or run of strings. It happens. If you know how install them correctly, they will work and hold tuning relatively well depending on how aggressively you work the bar and how well your guitar is set up and maintained in general. This post has been edited by klasaine: Jan 21 2019, 10:04 PM -------------------- - Ken Lasaine
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