Reply to this topicStart new topic
> A Soldering Iron
Neurologi
post Nov 6 2009, 07:43 AM
Post #1


GMC:er
*

Group: Members
Posts: 370
Joined: 28-August 09
From: Vaasa, Finland
Member No.: 7.566



Given the amount of maintenance I have been performing on my guitars, amps and various gear, the next logical step is for me to add a soldering iron to the toolbox. There are a bewildering array available on the net or in local hardware stores but I have no idea as to how to differentiate them. What features are useful and what are just excuses to hike up the price to unreasonable levels? A decent one would be nice but really I just want one that gets the job done with minimal fuss and could do without the extra bells and whistles if it saves me a few bob.

Thanks guys.


--------------------
My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Staffy
post Nov 6 2009, 08:56 AM
Post #2


Learning Tone Master
Group Icon

Group: MVC
Posts: 2.294
Joined: 18-June 09
From: Genarp, Sweden
Member No.: 7.291



The best one's is actually those with adjustable temperature, but they are quite expensive... I would say that an alternative will be to buy two - one very thin for precision work, and one with high effect to solder pots and things like that. I guess You can find some cheap one's at some outlet that will work excellent, since You're not gonna use them every day.

//Staffay

EDIT: What differs them is really the effect and the quality of the tip's. In order to solder pots and such, you need high effect when soldering on the covers for instance. The tip quality is not of any greater importance here, since it always can be fixed with a file when getting bad. (even that people say that it should'nt be done)

This post has been edited by Staffy: Nov 6 2009, 09:00 AM


--------------------


Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string
Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60
Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2
Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Neurologi
post Nov 6 2009, 09:08 AM
Post #3


GMC:er
*

Group: Members
Posts: 370
Joined: 28-August 09
From: Vaasa, Finland
Member No.: 7.566



Great! Thanks Staffy. Gives me an idea what to look out for ...


--------------------
My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Staffy
post Nov 6 2009, 09:16 AM
Post #4


Learning Tone Master
Group Icon

Group: MVC
Posts: 2.294
Joined: 18-June 09
From: Genarp, Sweden
Member No.: 7.291



QUOTE (Neurologi @ Nov 6 2009, 09:08 AM) *
Great! Thanks Staffy. Gives me an idea what to look out for ...


No probs! smile.gif


--------------------


Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string
Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60
Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2
Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Sensible Jones
post Nov 6 2009, 11:04 AM
Post #5


GMC:er
Group Icon

Group: GMC Senior
Posts: 6.614
Joined: 2-January 09
From: London-ish. UK.
Member No.: 6.517



What I use is a 100W one for soldering to the Pot Cases and a small Gas powered on for fine work. (Or a fine tipped adjustable temp one, these are called 'Soldering Stations'.)
biggrin.gif


--------------------
I'd rather have a full Bottle in front of me than a full Frontal Lobotomy!!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Staffy
post Nov 6 2009, 11:06 AM
Post #6


Learning Tone Master
Group Icon

Group: MVC
Posts: 2.294
Joined: 18-June 09
From: Genarp, Sweden
Member No.: 7.291



QUOTE (Sensible Jones @ Nov 6 2009, 11:04 AM) *
(Or a fine tipped adjustable temp one, these are called 'Soldering Stations'.)
biggrin.gif


These were the expensive one's I meant... :-)


--------------------


Guitars: Ibanez AM-200, Ibanez GB-10, Fender Stratocaster Classic Player, Warmouth Custom Built, Suhr Classic Strat, Gibson Les Paul Standard 2003, Ibanez steel-string
Amps: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, Marshall JMP 2103, AER 60
Effects: BOSS DD-20, Danelectro Trans. Overdrive, TC-Electronics G-Major, Dunlop Wah-wah, Original SansAmp, BOSS DD-2
Music by Staffy can be found at: Staffay at MySpace
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
-Zion-
post Nov 6 2009, 11:08 AM
Post #7


Learning Roadie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 713
Joined: 20-May 08
From: copenhagen
Member No.: 5.141



I have heard others suggest a maximum of 25-30watts soldering iron when doing guitar work..

This, of course, is to minimize the risk of you burning the components and destroying them..
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Neurologi
post Nov 6 2009, 12:03 PM
Post #8


GMC:er
*

Group: Members
Posts: 370
Joined: 28-August 09
From: Vaasa, Finland
Member No.: 7.566



How about something like this? Neat and tidy. I can get it fairly cheap via mail order.

Attached Image

VELLEMAN VTSS4 Soldering Station

On/Off Switch with LED Light
Soldering Iron Tip: Ø 1.2mm
Power Consumption: 48W
Temperature Control Range: 100 ° C - 450 ° C

------------------------------------------------------------

[EDIT] >> What kind of temp would one need to replace a capacitor or two, for instance, as that would be the first job I would have?

This post has been edited by Neurologi: Nov 6 2009, 12:28 PM


--------------------
My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
enforcer
post Nov 6 2009, 01:17 PM
Post #9


GMC:er
Group Icon

Group: Student Instructor
Posts: 1.202
Joined: 23-September 08
From: Istanbul
Member No.: 5.945



QUOTE (Neurologi @ Nov 6 2009, 01:03 PM) *
How about something like this? Neat and tidy. I can get it fairly cheap via mail order.

Attached Image

VELLEMAN VTSS4 Soldering Station

On/Off Switch with LED Light
Soldering Iron Tip: Ø 1.2mm
Power Consumption: 48W
Temperature Control Range: 100 ° C - 450 ° C

------------------------------------------------------------

[EDIT] >> What kind of temp would one need to replace a capacitor or two, for instance, as that would be the first job I would have?


if its cheap you get this. But remember, you can't just fit this in your everyday toolbox can you?

I believe 20W range soldiering irons are quite cheap, at least they are cheap here in Turkey(about $6-10 max) so, you may buy this one, and buy a 20W without temp control to carry with you wherever you go.

Hope this helps.

Edit - Reply to your Edit smile.gif - Generally it depends on your circuitry wattage, but I assume you want to change the capacitor on your guitar I guess, so 20W would be fine... Btw, for those kind of works, just remember to have some Soldiering Paste too, it makes really easy the cable work...

Take care...

This post has been edited by enforcer: Nov 6 2009, 01:20 PM


--------------------


incoming spoiler read it at your own risk!


Spoiler:


Vigier G.V Wood HH
American Stratocaster Maple Standart with X2N bridge pickups
Samwick Artist custom modified Baswood Lespaul with S.Duncan JB and N56 pickups
Self made Fretless Strat type made of Rosewood/Maple with self wound Neck and Ibanez V8 Bridge Pickups
Floor Pod 2.0 Amp Simulation System
Pod Xt Pro Rack Amp Simulation System
Digitech TSR 12 Rack Effect and Studio Reverb
Behringer Composer Rack Compressor Expander
Morley Bad Horsie Wah Pedal
Behringer FB1010 Floor Board



it, surely, spoiled me!!!


and may the force be with you :)
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Ivan Milenkovic
post Nov 6 2009, 02:44 PM
Post #10


Instructor
Group Icon

Group: GMC Instructor
Posts: 25.396
Joined: 20-November 07
From: Belgrade, Serbia
Member No.: 3.341



QUOTE (Neurologi @ Nov 6 2009, 12:03 PM) *
How about something like this? Neat and tidy. I can get it fairly cheap via mail order.

Attached Image

VELLEMAN VTSS4 Soldering Station

On/Off Switch with LED Light
Soldering Iron Tip: Ø 1.2mm
Power Consumption: 48W
Temperature Control Range: 100 ° C - 450 ° C

------------------------------------------------------------

[EDIT] >> What kind of temp would one need to replace a capacitor or two, for instance, as that would be the first job I would have?


This is more than enough to do the job.




--------------------
- Ivan's Video Chat Lesson Notes HERE
- Check out my GMC Profile and Lessons
- (Please subscribe to my) YouTube Official Channel
- Let's be connected through ! Facebook! :)
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Neurologi
post Nov 6 2009, 05:40 PM
Post #11


GMC:er
*

Group: Members
Posts: 370
Joined: 28-August 09
From: Vaasa, Finland
Member No.: 7.566



Thank you all for your help.

QUOTE (enforcer @ Nov 6 2009, 02:17 PM) *
if its cheap you get this. But remember, you can't just fit this in your everyday toolbox can you?

I believe 20W range soldiering irons are quite cheap, at least they are cheap here in Turkey(about $6-10 max) so, you may buy this one, and buy a 20W without temp control to carry with you wherever you go.

Edit - Reply to your Edit smile.gif - Generally it depends on your circuitry wattage, but I assume you want to change the capacitor on your guitar I guess, so 20W would be fine... Btw, for those kind of works, just remember to have some Soldiering Paste too, it makes really easy the cable work...


When I said toolbox, I meant the "proverbial" one! wink.gif It will likely only be used at home, so size is not so much an issue. Having another look, I see my local hardware store has two power ratings available for a simple soldering iron - 15W & 30W. Even these I wouldn't consider cheap. Everything in Finland is overpriced!

Sorry I am a noob. I don't see what difference there is as far as a particular job is concerned? The job I have in mind is replacing a couple of capacitors on the PCB in my G-Major (Yes. It is well out of warranty!) as suggested by some users on the TC Electronic Support Portal Forum in this post here as a solution to some of the problems I have been having with this unit as of late.




--------------------
My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Sensible Jones
post Nov 6 2009, 07:04 PM
Post #12


GMC:er
Group Icon

Group: GMC Senior
Posts: 6.614
Joined: 2-January 09
From: London-ish. UK.
Member No.: 6.517



That one will be plenty powerful enough to do PCB work!!! smile.gif


--------------------
I'd rather have a full Bottle in front of me than a full Frontal Lobotomy!!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Neurologi
post Nov 6 2009, 07:15 PM
Post #13


GMC:er
*

Group: Members
Posts: 370
Joined: 28-August 09
From: Vaasa, Finland
Member No.: 7.566



Awesome. Nice to have a little reassurance I will be buying the right tool for the job. Thanks again to everyone.


--------------------
My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Saoirse O'Shea
post Nov 6 2009, 07:20 PM
Post #14


Moderator - low level high stakes
Group Icon

Group: GMC Senior
Posts: 6.173
Joined: 27-June 07
From: Espania - Cadiz province
Member No.: 2.194



As an alternative - maybe just leave the GMajor powered on? A lot of pro gear works well if left on.


--------------------
Get your music professionally mastered by anl AES registered Mastering Engineer. Contact me for Audio Mastering Services and Advice and visit our website www.miromastering.com

Be friends on facebook with us here.

We use professional, mastering grade hardware in our mastering studo. Our hardware includes:
Cranesong Avocet II Monitor Controller, Dangerous Music Liasion Insert Hardware Router, ATC SCM Pro Monitors, Lavry Black DA11, Prism Orpheus ADC/DAC, Gyratec Gyraf XIV Parallel Passive Mastering EQ, Great River MAQ 2NV Mastering EQ, Kush Clariphonic Parallel EQ Shelf, Maselec MLA-2 Mastering Compressor, API 2500 Mastering Compressor, Eventide Eclipse Reverb/Echo.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Neurologi
post Nov 6 2009, 07:53 PM
Post #15


GMC:er
*

Group: Members
Posts: 370
Joined: 28-August 09
From: Vaasa, Finland
Member No.: 7.566



That's something I haven't tried. I usually turn on, use, and turn off. Definitely worth a shot! It might even remedy this problem I am having trying to update the firmware via midi. It is likely to be a power supply problem and leaving it on for a day or more prior to the update might be the thing ...

Excellent suggestion, Tony. Many thanks.


--------------------
My gear? Mesa Boogie Triaxis - TC Electronic G-Major - Marshall 9200 Dual MonoBloc (2x100W) - Fender Roc Pro 4x12 (300W) + a whole lot more!
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 


RSS Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 13th December 2017 - 06:40 AM