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> Jaguar Problems
llibach
post May 17 2012, 11:40 PM
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For a few years I've been doing minor work on my guitars and those of friends. Now I'm far from being a tech but I can sort out a decent set up and so on. Yesterday I was given a Fender Jaguar who choked notes when you bent at around the 15th to 17th fret on the high E, frets looked level but the neck had a slight bow so decided to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod.
Apparently this guitar was bought new in 2006 and no work has been done on it, but after removing the neck there were a few shims there to raise the neck angle, took them off and replaced the neck and the action was really high even with the bridge lowered. And talking of the bridge the bridge posts had tape wrapped around them to stop the movement in the post holes. If this guitar was sent from the Fender factory like this it's a disgrace, my theory is that the tech in the shop saw the poor set up and went to work sorting it.
Anyway after a few hours work on it I managed to get a decent action but a bit too high for my tastes and sorted the choke with the bend by removing a couple of the shims and adjusting the truss rod. Safe to say I'll never buy a Jaguar, but it is a nice sounding guitar though.
I was wondering if anybody else has a Jaguar and if these problems are common with the model?
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Sensible Jones
post May 18 2012, 12:31 AM
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Sometimes youll need to dress individual frets just to make enough clearance to stop them choking. Truss rod adjustments should really be done with the neck still attached and the strings up to tension as the balance between the Truss tension and the String tension is what you're after.
Good job you removed it to reveal the shims though! If, as you say, by removing the shims it improved then it seems the problem lies is with the Neck Joint and the Bridge Height.
If you remove ALL the shims is it still really high? If so, sounds like the post holes need drilling a touch to lower them.
Also, check the neck 'relief' this is usually a good guage as to whether or not the Truss Rodd is correctly tensioned. Fret the bottom E string at the 1st fret (use a left hand finger) and fret the same string at the 12th Fret (use a right hand finger) and check that there is about a 0.5 - 1 mm gap between the string and the frets at about the 6/7/8th frets. Repeat on the top E string, although the gap should be very slightly less (due to the thickness of the string), if there's a large difference one way or the other you can tell that the neck needs to be 'twisted, via the Truss Rod, one way or the other.
Hope this helps mate!
If you need more just ask!!
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This post has been edited by Sensible Jones: May 18 2012, 12:32 AM


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llibach
post May 18 2012, 04:44 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I did check the neck relief with strings on but the neck had the truss screw on the body side and I could see there was a slight rise to the angle of the neck so wanted to remove the neck anyway so I just gave it a quater turn with the neck off, seemed easier.
Yeah action is really high without the shims but don't know about drilling the post holes there's two small adjusting poles on the bridge posts but I can't really take it low or it just chokes completly after the 12th fret.
One thing that struck me though is that the saddles don't have a height adjustment screws just round saddles that lie in the bridge plate.
I"m thinking of suggesting that he let me replace the saddles with ones that we can adjust I'm sure that would get us a little lower with the action. But I got to say that it's the biggest pain in the ass to set up I've ever come across, what where fender thinking. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by llibach: May 18 2012, 04:44 PM
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Sensible Jones
post May 18 2012, 08:12 PM
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About replacing the saddles, not sure if THIS of any use to you? seems that an adjustable bridge from a Mustang gives you more adjustment.

If it's OK up to the 12th and only choking above it I'd be tempted to set the action so it's playing how your guy wants it below the 12th and then dress the frets above to suit. It could be that althought the neck is straight and true the original Fret Slots above the 12th weren't cut quite deep enough. possibly a re-fret would help if this doesn't help.
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This post has been edited by Sensible Jones: May 18 2012, 08:14 PM


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llibach
post May 18 2012, 08:22 PM
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Ah, now it makes sense, this mod had already been done with the posts taped so guess somebody knew what they where doing, I actually have some lock tite so might talk it over with him get the height agreed on and apply it to the grub screws to stop movement.
As for dressing the frets a bit out of my comfort zone there, I'm learning on a couple of old guitars at the moment so will give it a miss on this one and pass it on to a tech I know if it needs and sit in while it gets done for pointers. Thanks for the help. wink.gif

This post has been edited by llibach: May 18 2012, 08:25 PM
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Ben Higgins
post May 19 2012, 11:11 AM
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I first expected a post about having trouble with an expensive British car ! laugh.gif


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Sensible Jones
post May 19 2012, 12:00 PM
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QUOTE (llibach @ May 18 2012, 08:22 PM) *
I'm learning on a couple of old guitars at the moment so will give it a miss on this one and pass it on to a tech I know if it needs and sit in while it gets done for pointers. Thanks for the help. wink.gif

No worries! I hope it gets sorted!

QUOTE (Ben Higgins @ May 19 2012, 11:11 AM) *
I first expected a post about having trouble with an expensive British car ! laugh.gif

Or a big Cat with attitude!!


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