Stringing; Ball Ends At Tuners (for Floyd Type Bridges)
Mertay
Apr 28 2021, 07:42 PM
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I've seen it a few times but I guess thought it was ugly looking never tried it before smile.gif but it turned out to be very cool!

So instead of cutting the ball ends of a string, the ball-end acts as a stopper from the tuner. You cut the strings from the bridge before inserting to the locking saddles. Just keep enough space so the string has enough length to get into the locking saddle. And thats it, advantages;

-Way faster process
-less need to turn the tuners (just like locking tuners), less winding is better for tuning stability too.
-no string slippage risk from tuners.
-no pointy string ends from headstock...

It's only been a few hours since I tried this but all seems ok for now. If any unforseen problem occurs I'll let you guys know.


Edit; found a video about it, jump 5 minute's

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This post has been edited by Mertay: Apr 28 2021, 07:59 PM


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AK Rich
Apr 28 2021, 08:59 PM
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I've always done it pretty much the same way except that I don't run the ball ends all the way up against the tuning peg, I'll cut those off to keep it cleaner looking and I know how long to make each string so that I only have about 2 or 2 1/2 wraps around the pegs. I didn't used to block the trem at first but figured that part out too after a few times of changing strings and having to tune multiple times until the string and spring tensions were even with the bridge being flat with the body. It was at that time that I figured out how to adjust the claw to get the trem flat under tension as well. Ever since then, string changes with a trem have been a breeze.

I've always done it pretty much the same way except that I don't run the ball ends all the way up against the tuning peg, I'll cut those off to keep it cleaner looking and I know how long to make each string so that I only have about 2 or 2 1/2 wraps around the pegs. I didn't used to block the trem at first but figured that part out too after a few times of changing strings and having to tune multiple times until the string and spring tensions were even with the bridge being flat with the body. 🤔 It was at that time that I figured out how to adjust the claw to get the trem flat under tension as well. Ever since then, string changes with a trem have been a breeze. 🙂

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This post has been edited by AK Rich: Apr 28 2021, 08:58 PM
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jstcrsn
Apr 28 2021, 09:57 PM
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as long as you never cut the string to short, for my money i trim the other end ( if need be) and lock it into the bridge before I start thinking about cutting strings

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Mertay
Apr 28 2021, 10:42 PM
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@AK Rich (couldn't quote your post for some reason)

My only worry about keeping the ball ends were the wrapping of the string to the ball area. Like maybe it wouldn't bend nice or somehow damage the string once wrapped, but so far so good.

The guy in the video cuts way longer than I did, I took the saddle of each string as reference. Low E string is 3/4 turn and high e string is maybe a little more than 1 turn... probably I risked the length too short for the first try (should have watched that vid. before doing it) but thankfully didn't mess up laugh.gif

As for the Floyd bridge I have 2 scenarios;

1- If I'm not going to clean the fretboard I change strings 1 by 1 so the bridge doesn't shift making tuning easy. As a habbit I always use paper towels after playing and let the paper towel touch the frets gently while cleaning the strings so despite my hands can sweat quite a bit at times, its not very often I need to clean the fretboard.

2- If I'm going to clean the fretboard, there's a trem. stopper installed I depend on. Currently the bridge is set floating but I didn't pull the trem. stopper all the way back as I don't do crazy tremolo arm pulling anymore like when I was a teen biggrin.gif So the trem. does lay back a bit but not too bad. Also while tuning I tune the low E+A a bit higher at first to make the process faster.

QUOTE (jstcrsn @ Apr 28 2021, 08:57 PM) *
as long as you never cut the string to short, for my money i trim the other end ( if need be) and lock it into the bridge before I start thinking about cutting strings


I tried to find an old video but couldn't, it was similar to this though (jump 2.13);



So for those who like installing string to the bridge first, this helps not needing to wind string too much.

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This post has been edited by Mertay: Apr 28 2021, 10:43 PM


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Todd Simpson
Apr 28 2021, 10:43 PM
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Yup smile.gif This is how I always string my guitars. The ball acts like a great little anchor. The Bullet ends on the Yngwie sets to look a bit odd as they are oblong, but I leave them on as well smile.gif


QUOTE (Mertay @ Apr 28 2021, 02:42 PM) *
I've seen it a few times but I guess thought it was ugly looking never tried it before smile.gif but it turned out to be very cool!

So instead of cutting the ball ends of a string, the ball-end acts as a stopper from the tuner. You cut the strings from the bridge before inserting to the locking saddles. Just keep enough space so the string has enough length to get into the locking saddle. And thats it, advantages;

-Way faster process
-less need to turn the tuners (just like locking tuners), less winding is better for tuning stability too.
-no string slippage risk from tuners.
-no pointy string ends from headstock...

It's only been a few hours since I tried this but all seems ok for now. If any unforseen problem occurs I'll let you guys know.


Edit; found a video about it, jump 5 minute's


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AK Rich
Apr 29 2021, 01:02 AM
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From: Big Lake, Alaska
QUOTE (Mertay @ Apr 28 2021, 12:42 PM) *
@AK Rich (couldn't quote your post for some reason)

As for the Floyd bridge I have 2 scenarios;

1- If I'm not going to clean the fretboard I change strings 1 by 1 so the bridge doesn't shift making tuning easy. As a habbit I always use paper towels after playing and let the paper towel touch the frets gently while cleaning the strings so despite my hands can sweat quite a bit at times, its not very often I need to clean the fretboard.

2- If I'm going to clean the fretboard, there's a trem. stopper installed I depend on. Currently the bridge is set floating but I didn't pull the trem. stopper all the way back as I don't do crazy tremolo arm pulling anymore like when I was a teen biggrin.gif So the trem. does lay back a bit but not too bad. Also while tuning I tune the low E+A a bit higher at first to make the process faster.

Nice, that's not a bad idea changing one string at a time. Fortunately, I don't have the problem of sweaty hands but I'm in the habit of pulling off all the strings at once and doing a quick cleanup and/or light oiling every time I change strings. It's nice to have that trem stop installed for changing strings. So far I just make a shim out of cedar shim stock to block the trem during a string swap or use the Tremolok shim tool my local guitar tech gave me.
Attached Image
One thing that I do that I don't think the guy in the video mentioned is that I like to set all my fine tuners at 50% before putting on the new set so that after I lock the nut I have headroom to fine tune up or down quite a bit. Usually after I have stretched the strings and tuned up, after I lock the nut down I end up being a little sharp, so now I tune slightly flat before I lock the nut so that I end up being about right on or just slightly flat before I fine tune.

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This post has been edited by AK Rich: Apr 29 2021, 01:09 AM
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klasaine
Apr 29 2021, 02:41 AM
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I worked at a music store in the 80s and that's the way we ALWAYS strung them.
Also re-adjusting the fine tuners to 50% as AKRich mentions. *That's also the way you do it on violins, violas and cellos that have fine tuners on the bridge.

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